New to RVing | RV Tricks

12 of my favorite accessories and upgrades

admin — Sun, 03 Feb 2019 20:10:57 +0000

Just like most of you, we have purchased a lot of accessories for our RV. I wrote a previous article on 15 essential items that everyone needs. In this article, I discuss 12 of my other favorite upgrades and explain why.

#12: Upgraded Storage bin locks

Upgraded barrel lock

Do you lock you storage bins? Bet you didn’t know that everyone’s storage bin key will will most likely open your bins! Don’t believe me? Take a look at your key and I bet it has a CH751 stamp on it. This is a dirty little secret in the RV industry. Nearly every manufacturer uses the CH751 lock on their storage bins.

CH751 Keys

Fortunately you can change the locks. I went with barrel locks from Industrial Lock and Hardware. They provide a measurement sheet so you can order the exact size locks for each compartment.

#11: Gutter Spouts

Are you getting black streaks where water runs down off your roof’s gutters? This is an easy fix. Check out these gutter spout extensions. Very easy to install and pretty much eliminated all my streaking issues. A cheap and useful upgrade for sure!

#10: Front end alignment

Tire worn on side

Steering feel light? Is your motorhome pushed around easily by wind? Are your front tires starting to wear out quickly (especially on one side)? You should consider having your motorhome’s front end aligned.

I took my motorhome to a local big truck alignment shop (they can handle large vehicles like motorhomes). After extensive research, I learned that Ford aligns their E450 (class C) and F53 (class A) chassis when built. Unfortunatley, most RV manufactures do not realign after adding the 10,000 lb house on top! In fact, my motorhome had a sticker that said that the alignment should be verified after it is fully loaded.

My NEW Class C’s “total toe” was way out of specification (tires were both pointed substantially outward). This will eat up tires FAST. Another tip, ask them to set the “caster” to the upper end of the allowable range. Added caster will add forces for your RV to want to return your wheels straight after turning. This helps make the RV track straighter on the highway and not get pushed around by wind as badly. Get your motorhome’s alignment checked before you eat up tires!

Additionally, you can also consider upgrading your motorhome’s sway bars for additional stability. I wrote up my thoughts and installation info here.

#9: Upgraded mattress topper

Upgraded mattress

RV mattresses are hard as a rock! We own a toy hauler Class C which doesn’t have a traditional bed. We usually sleep up over the cab in ours. We realized on day one that the factory ‘mattress’ wouldn’t do. We found that a Serta full-size mattress topper worked well in our over cab bunk. We both sleep very well on this mattress. Make sure to measure your bunk before purchasing as different models may vary.

#8: Bunk ladder storage

This is something I designed to allow me to keep the ladder for the over-the-cab bunk secured while in transit and stored out of the way when not in use. I wrote up the details in this post.

#7: External Windshield Shade

This inexpensive external RV windshield shade is a nice addition to add privacy and help block some of the heat that can come through the front windshield. The shade is easy and quick to install when setting up and breaking down camp. If the shade gets dirty just hose off. Definitely a worthwhile upgrade. Covers are made for both class A and class C motorhomes, so you get the right one for your model.

#6: Flag Pole

Flag pole behind my RV

Oh say can you see…by the dawn’ early light…OK you get the idea! I’m a very patriotic American and support our troops and veterans. As such I’m proud to fly our nation’s colors at all times while camping. I also find it to be a nice touch to fly my state flag as I travel to all of the different states.

I carry a collapsible flag pole with a base that sits underneath the rear RV tire. Holds everything nice and secure. Only complaint is I find on windy days my pole will tap against the side of the body and its pretty annoying. I solved this issue by buying a few pieces of foam water pipe insulation from Home Depot and installing around the extended flag pole.

I don’t do this every time, but while camping on Hatteras Island over Memorial Day weekend, I wrapped my pole with some LED lights. Made for quite a neat effect.

Lighted flag pole!

#5: Progressive Dynamics AC-to-DC Converter

My RV came with a WFCO 855 AC-to-DC convertor and I discovered that it was overcharging my house batteries. No matter how long it sat idle, the voltage would never drop below 13.7 Volts. Over time, this will COOK your batteries and require early replacement. After some extensive research, I found that the WFCO converter was notorious for not going into a true float charge mode. I’ve seen pictures of batteries on different forums that nearly exploded due to overcharging. This upgrade is one you should seriously consider

The Progressive Dynamics 4655 is nearly a direct replacement for the WFCO. This unit is a true four-stage converter (the fourth stage helps prevent internal corrosion of the batteries). Now my batteries are being properly maintained and I haven’t had one issue over the last 2 years.

The kit also comes with an upgraded DC fuse box which has indicators for blown fuses (cool!) Unfortunately, it wasn’t rated for more than 20 Amps, so I had to keep the WFCO fuse box (due to 30A slideout circuit)

One cool add-on was the Wizard Pendant (shown in the photo above) that tells you what charging phase your converter is in (and let you force it into any mode).

The install was straight forward and I’ll write up an article on the process soon. Definitely something any competent DIY’er can handle.

#4: Amazon Streaming Music (Bluetooth)

Did you know that Amazon Prime includes FREE music streaming? For the longest time I thought Prime was only free 2-day shipping. Boy was I wrong! This is an awesome benefit to allow a great variety of music while your camping or driving. My main radio and RV radio both support Bluetooth and I am constantly streaming music. If you don’t have Prime, check it out (click here for details on how to get 30 days for free)

You can also add Amazon Unlimited Music to allow you build play lists with all of the current popular music. Click here to try Amazon Unlimited Music for free for 30 days.

#3: Stove-top cutting board

One downside to RVs is the very small kitchen space in most models. I found this nice stove top cutting board that extends your usable kitchen space. It snaps on and off easily to the stove top grate. Just remember to remove before you fire up a burner!

#2 Custom cooking grate

I built this cooking grate to use over campfires. There are other cooking options available (I discussed them here), however this custom grate allows to us to cook a big meal when we are entertaining at the campsite. I’ll be writing up how I built it in the near future.

#1: Outdoor mats

We learned early on that some campsites aren’t nicely manicured and we would drag all kinds of dirt into our motorhome. We solved this by purchasing this reversible outdoor mat. Its easily to clean by spraying off with a hose and has loops to stake it down. We liked it so much, we bought a second one to cover more area!

9 Common RV Mistakes

admin — Sun, 06 Jan 2019 23:18:12 +0000

It is inherently human to make mistakes and we were all RV newbies at some point. Here are 9 common mistakes that I have seen and why these observations should cause you to rethink your approach.

1. Leaving Black Tank Dump Valve Open

This is the most common mistake I see at most campgrounds. It is OK to leave your grey tank valve open since the waste water is predominantly liquid. The same cannot be said for sewage. Sewage requires sufficient liquid flow to carry the solids (toilet paper and poo) through the dump valve piping and the sewage hose. Additionally, solid matter needs sufficient liquids to allow the enzymes from the toilet treatment to do their job in breaking the solids down. Leaving the black tank dump valve open will only allow the liquids to escape but generally will leave the solids behind. This can result in a “pyramid of poo” directly below your toilet – Disgusting! Not only can this cause clogs and other damage to your plumbing, it can result in very unpleasant smells in the RV.

The proper way to use your dump valves is to leave your black tank valve closed until the tank is nearly full or you are ready to dump prior to breaking camp. This will ensure adequate volume of liquid to carry the solid matter out of the system an into the campground sewer. Another tip, close your grey water tank 24 hours before breaking camp. Then dump the gray tank after your black tank. This will generally leave adequate ‘clean’ water to flush your RV sewer pipe prior to disconnecting.

2. Wrong Water Hose

Garden (green) vs drinking (blue)

Can you use a green garden water hose? You can but you shouldn’t. The Ecology Center in Ann Arbor Michigan conducted a study of garden hoses and found that “the flexible plastic of PVC hoses frequently contained elevated lead, bromine, antimony, and phthalates.” Most green garden hoses you find at many home improvement stores are constructed of PVC. I’m sure most of you don’t want to be ingesting or washing with these chemicals. Instead, I recommend using a hose designed for drinking water, which are generally white or blue. Another bonus is that some drinking water hoses are more flexible and easier to roll up (just look at the difference in the picture to the left).

3. No Water Pressure Regulator

Did you know that many RVs use plastic piping that can only handle ~60-75psi of pressure? Did you know that some campgrounds have water pressures that exceed 100psi? This recipe spells potential disaster, whether it’s a burst pipe or even worse – flooding your RV! The solution is simple. Use a water pressure regulator which is designed to reduce the incoming water pressure to 50psi.

4. Unattended Awning

I’ll admit I have been guilty of this common mistake. The large awnings on many RVs make great wind sails. It only takes a modest wind gust to really cause enough force to break the support arms, attachment points, or rip the awning material. I generally will bring the awning in at night or while we plan to be away, especially if it is forecast to be windy. As an extra precaution, I added some awning tie down anchors to one of my storage bins and use them as a preventative measure against gusts while I’m around.

5. Using The Wrong Toilet Paper

Sure, Charmin Ultra Soft toilet paper is nice and soft, but it doesn’t readily break down in the holding tank. This increases the opportunities for clogs in your RV black tank or sewer piping. There are toilet papers available that are rated as RV safe such as Camco 1-Ply and Scott Rapid Dissolving. There are other toilet papers out there that will break down but aren’t necessarily marketed to the RV industry, which can save you substantial money (especially for full-timers). To test your paper, put a few sheets of paper in a glass jar half filled with water. Install a lid and shake for 15 seconds. If the toilet paper readily breaks down into small pieces during this test then it is likely alright to use. If it doesn’t break down, don’t use it in your RV.

6. RV Walk Around

Performing an RV walk around is essential any time prior to moving the RV or operating some of the accessories. Nothing ever good comes from rushing and taking the time to ‘do it right’ is always the best advice. I’m guilty for trying to do things quickly and it has caused some minor issues with my RV in the past. Before departing from your home, I recommend to do a full light check (brake lights, turn signals, running lights, head lights, etc), check tire pressures, check motor oil levels, and make sure all doors, awnings and slide outs are secured and no cords or hoses are accidentally left hooked up. Before extending (or retracting) your slide outs, verify there are no obstructions in the way. I once didn’t check that one of my storage doors under the slide out was propped up and it contacted my slide out when I tried retracting it. This dumb little mistake caused some damage to the hinge. I was lucky that it was only minor damage and an easy fix. I now check and double check before departing and operating the slide out or awning.

7. Know Your RV Height

Not researching (or measuring) how tall your RV is (and remembering it) could be a very costly mistake. There are many overpasses on major roads that were not designed with adequate clearance for taller vehicles. This is very true on many parkways that I’ve driven, especially in the north eastern US. It is not uncommon to find some bridges that have 10ft or less clearance. This is why commercial vehicles (and RVs) are prohibited on some parkways. There are a few low bridges near me and it appears to be a monthly occurrence to have tall vehicles hitting it (even with ample warning signs). Don’t risk your AC or other rooftop accessories. Know your height and abide by all signage. If in doubt, turn around!

8. Inadequate Leveling

Leveling your RV at the campsite is very important. Two key systems in your RV require them to be leveled for optimum reliability. First is the propane refrigerator. Norcold recommends that their refrigerators should be operated within 3 degrees of level side-to-side and 6 degrees front-to-back. This is to allow the ammonia refrigerant to properly gravity drain. If operated too long out of these tolerances, overheating in the boiler section can cause the formation of sodium chromate crystals in the narrow tubing. Once these crystals form, they cannot be removed. If they cause complete blockage, then your fridge will no longer function and must be replaced. This mistake can cost thousands of dollars.

Equally important is your RV slide out(s). Slide outs are supported by multiple tracks that were installed when the vehicle was level. If you try to operate the slide out when unlevel, then you can create a binding situation that can prevent proper function or even damage your slide out motors. This mistake can also cost thousands of dollars.

Invest in a small level and carry it in your RV. One other note, don’t trust your autolevel feature (if equipped). I determined my autolevel wasn’t particularly accurate.

9. Improper Maintenance

RVs require periodic maintenance to keep them operating with minimal issues. Taking the time between camping trips or during the winter offseason is a necessary chore. All the various systems should be routinely inspected/maintained. This includes (but is not limited to) motorhome engine, tires, brakes, slide outs, propane systems, electrical systems, plumbing, roof, body seals, and onboard generator. As the old addage goes: An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. I plan on writing articles and hosting youtube videos that cover many of these areas so keep checking back for updates.

15 essential things you need for your RV

admin — Sat, 05 Jan 2019 18:28:45 +0000

RVs do not come with many of the essential items necessary to be able to utilize one at most campgrounds. There are an infinite amount of things you’ll need to acquire over time. However based on my experience, these are the top 15 essential things you need immediately for your RV. I feel these are all equally important and placed related items together next to each other.

#1 RV Sewer Hose

Most RVs do not come with the hose necessary to empty your grey and black waste water tanks. I found this kit (click to find on amazon) to come with most of the essentials needed to hook up at pretty much any campground. Specifically, it includes two 10′ RhinoFLEX sewer Hoses, a translucent elbow with 4-n-1 adapter and Four storage caps.

What I learned early on is that sometimes the campground sewer fitting isn’t particularly close to the RV’s waste water port and 10 feet of hose just wouldn’t work. This kit includes two 10′ sections of hose which virtually ensures you can hook up just about anywhere. It also includes the adapter that will work with most campground sewers.

I’ve used the same Camco hoses for two seasons without any issue.

#2 Transparent Sewer Elbow

I feel that using a transparent sewer elbow is very inexpensive way to help prevent many future RV black tank issues. I installed this one between the RV waste water outlet and the hose. It allows me to see exactly what is coming out of the tanks. When flushing your black tank, you want to keep flushing until you don’t see any residual solid items (such as poo or toilet paper) coming out of the tanks. A clean tank is a happy tank and will provide years of trouble free service.

#3 Sewer Hose Support

Have you ever seen water run uphill? I know I haven’t and this is also true with waste water. This sewer hose ‘slinky’ will allow you to ensure your sewer hose has a gradual drop from the RV to the campground sewer hookup. This will keep wastewater from staying in the hose allowing free flow at all times.

#4 Disposable Nitrile Gloves

Working with sewer hose is a dirty job which can be riddled with bacteria and other germs. I recommend carrying disposable nitrile gloves to protect your hands. After you are done, you simply take them off (pulling inside out) and toss them in the trash. I use and recommend nitrile gloves, especially for those with latex allergies.

#5 Black Tank Treatment

Black tank treatments are chemicals you pour down the RV toilet to help break down the solids in your black tank and to help prevent sewer odor in your RV. I like the Pure Power individual bottles since I don’t have to measure out the treatment and they work as intended. I’ve tried a few different chemical types and the Pure Power is the best treatment option that I have used to date.

#6 Fresh Water Hose

New RVs generally do not come with the hose required to hook up the campground water faucet. Even though the fittings are the same, I strongly recommend not using any old green garden hose. Garden hoses are intended for non-potable applications only. Instead, I suggest using a hose designed for drinking water, such as the Camco blue hose (which is what I use).

#7 Water Hose Elbow

Some RV water connections stick straight out and is stressed when you screw a hose to it. Adding a 90 degree fitting eliminates undue stress and minimizes potential hose crimping and strain. It also keeps the hose close to the RV body preventing accidental damage if ran into.

#8 Water Pressure Regulator

The water pressure at some campgrounds can exceed 100psi which can cause major damage to your RV plumbing. This simple nonadjustable regulator reduces water pressure to a safe level. More expensive adjustable regulators are also available. I personally made the switch so I could fine-tune my pressure in the RV.

#9 Water Hose Y Splitter

A Y-splitter is a must when you carry an additional hose for general cleaning or black tank flushing. this prevents you from having to disconnect your main RV water hose. You can leave both hoses hooked up and just turn off the general hose when not in use.

#10 Expandable Water Hose

I carry a second hose for non-potable water hose for general cleaning. I have used this to rinse off dirty outdoor mats, bicycles, kayaks, etc. I also use to connect to my black tank flush fitting (I strongly recommend not using your drinking water hose for this task due to potential for cross-contamination). I like this particular hose since it is collapsible and very lightweight. This makes it ideal for storing since it takes very little space.

#11 Electrical Management System

I strongly recommend that addition of an electrical management system (EMS) between the campground electrical hookup (shore power) and your RV cord. They are offered in both 30A (picture above) and 50A versions. EMS helps to protect your RV against voltage fluctuations, power surges and incorrectly wired shore power which can cause severe and costly damage to RV appliances and electronics.

I will say that this unit has saved me thousands of dollars of potential damage in the first year alone! One time I was assigned a site that didn’t have an appropriate ground wire at the shore power connection. Lack of grounding is a severe safety hazard as you can end up getting shocked by just touching anything metal on your RV. Another time, the EMS shut down the power after it dropped to 105 volts. Items such as air conditions cannot tolerate voltages that low. Had it not been protected, I may had to replace my entire AC system!

A simple (and less expensive) surge protector would not have prevented these potential issues. I feel a $250-$300 investment in an EMS is absolutely necessary. I do secure my EMS to the shore power pole using a cable lock. They are also offered in 30A or 50A hardwired versions (to permanently mount in the RV) for those with good electrical aptitude. I’m a true believer in using this and strongly recommend it as essential as insurance against potential electrical faults.

#12 Emory Cloth

Its unlikely you will find others that put emory cloth on their essential list. I learned early on that electrical plugs sometimes fit loosely in the campground shore power receptacle (30 Amp plugs seem to be more prone to this issue). Even the plug on my EMS system was not exempt from this issue. Over time, this causes heating and pitting of your electrical connector. When the corrosion becomes serious enough, there will be electrical arcing in the receptacle and resistive heating. In the most severe cases, the end of your plug could catch fire! I’ve seen some seriously distorted plugs on various social media posts. To ensure good contact, I like to polish my connector prongs before each use. This will minimize the chance of plug failure requiring replacement. You can find this at any hardware store, or on Amazon.

#13 Refrigerator Thermometer

RV propane refrigerators are notorious for temperature fluctuations, depending on how loaded they are. To prevent food spoilage due to inadequate cooling and undesired freezing of items in your refrigerator, I recommend a basic refrigerator thermometer. I like to keep my refrigerator between 32 and 38 degrees F.

#14 Leveling Blocks

Most campgrounds aren’t level and some are worse than others. When using RV hydraulic jacks on highly unlevel surfaces, tire(s) can come off of the ground. Jack manufactures advise against this and I feel it is a very unsafe practice. Using adjustable leveling blocks (for dual rear tires as shown above) under the tires to roughly level the RV before using the jacks helps prevent this situation. Sometimes you just don’t know level a new campsite will be and you don’t want to learn about this the hard way (like I did).

#15 Battery Powered Lantern

Setting up camp in the dark is no fun, so shed some light on the situation! I like these small LED lanterns to help see what I’m doing while setting up after the sun goes down. They are also nice for adding light to a picnic table or when walking to the campground bathhouse at night.

Plugging an RV in at home

admin — Sun, 15 Jul 2018 17:57:21 +0000

Can you plug in your RV at home? Absolutely! In fact I recommend keeping your RV plugged in at all times when not in use.

There are many advantages to plugging in your RV while sitting at home. First, it allows the RV’s converter to keep the house batteries charged which improves the overall life expectancy of your batteries (assuming you have a good AC to DC converter which I discuss in a separate article). Second, it lets you power up your RV refrigerator so it has time to get cold before departing on your next trip. Third, if done correctly, it will even let you turn on your RV air conditioner(s) while you are packing your RV. I’m going to discuss the different options available and the pros and cons of each of these options.

Option 1: Normal household outlet (15 Amp)

Typical 15A household outlet

This is by far the most convenient option since every house has these types of outlets. However these household circuits are generally limited to 15 Amps (although some circuits can be wired with thicker gauge wire and protected with a 20 Amp breaker). A quick survey of your home’s electrical load center (breaker box) will help you identify the load ratings of your plugs.

A “dog bone” adapter will be necessary to use your 15 Amp circuit. Several variations of this adapter are available. For this application you will need the one that has a male 15 Amp Plug and a female 30 or 50 Amp plug (depending if your RV is 30 or 50 Amps). As an example, my 15 Amp to 30 Amp dog bone is shown below. Additionally, a proper extension cord is necessary if the outlet isn’t in proximity to the RV. I strongly recommend a heavy duty extension cord of at least 12AWG if the cord is 50ft long or less. For extension cords greater than 50ft, I recommend the extension cord should be 10AWG. Yes, these extension cords can be expensive, but you really want to minimize resistive losses which generate heat.

Dog bone adapter (15 Amp to 30 Amp shown)

Another important consideration is that it is rare to find a single outlet on any given 15 or 20 Amp circuit. Therefore, whatever else is plugged in (and powered up) on that circuit needs to be considered in your calculations. Keep in mind that these other things reduce the overall amperage that your RV can safely draw before tripping your breaker. You also need to consider typical power draws of various RV circuits. Typical power use ranges for RV components are as follows:

RV AC to DC converter: up to 8 Amps
LP refrigerator: 2-3 Amps
Residential refrigerator: -5 Amps continuous
RV Air conditioner: 12+ Amps continuous (each)

To illustrate this point, I did a quick test with my Progressive Industries Electrical Management System (EMS) that has a digital readout that shows current draw being pulled by the the RV through the plug. For this test, I plugged my RV in after sitting unplugged for a few days with nothing turned on, so only the AC to DC converter powered up. The current spiked to 12 Amps and then leveled off at 7-8 Amps while the converter was in bulk charge mode. Once it went into absorption mode, it dropped to 5 Amps. I then turned on the air conditioner. The current draw immediately jumped to 15 Amps draw. Note that this was just the air conditioner and converter. What this test did not capture with the current surge caused by starting the AC compressor. This surge can be an additional 10 Amps, however its nearly impossible to capture with my EMS since the readout cycles between voltage, current, frequency, and any error codes.

Current with AC powered up

I then turned on the LP refrigerator (in electric mode) and it increased to 18 Amps. Had this been on a 15 Amp circuit, this would’ve certainly tripped the breaker! If anything, it should be obvious that it isn’t a good idea to try to run the RV air conditioner when plugged into a normal household outlet. Although you theoretically could run an RV air conditioner on a 15 Amp circuit, in reality it will likely trip your breaker since the converter will also likely have some converter load at any given time. For example, the converter will be drawing power to keep the batteries topped off or to power any 12V lights you have on (this could be up to 8Amps depending on the state of your battery charge). Unless you turn off the converter by flipping off its breaker in the RV breaker box, you always have to consider this load in your calculations. Even if your house outlet is protected by a 20 Amp breaker I do not recommend trying to run the air conditioner due to excessive electrical extension cord heating (they are only rated for up to 15 Amps). Be advised that longer extension cords (especially if undersized) can cause significant voltage drop as well. If it drops below 105V, it can damage your air conditioner. If you want to safely run your RV’s air conditioner(s), I strong recommend installing a dedicated 30Amp or 50Amp dedicated circuit as discussed below.

Bottom line, I recommend that a 15 Amp household circuit should be limited to powering up your refrigerator and to keep your RV batteries charged. I do not recommend attempting to power up an air conditioner.

Option 2 : Install a Dedicated 30 Amp Outlet

30 Amp Outlet

If you have a 30 Amp RV, having a dedicated 30 Amp circuit is the “ideal” scenario. Having a dedicated 30 Amp RV plug would be just like if you were plugged in the campground. As such everything will operate just like when you are plugged into the power pole at the RV park. For safety purposes, I strongly recommend a licensed electrician install new electrical circuits. However, it is very important that you communicate with your electrician, that it needs to be a 120V 30 Amp circuit. There are also 240V 30 Amp circuits and if it was wired to 240V, you will cause significant damage to your RV when you plug it in. One easy way to tell if they likely did it correctly is look at the breaker that they install in your home’s (or garage’s) electrical load center. It should be a single pole 30 Amp breaker (not a double breaker like you find on your drier circuit).

If you choose to attempt this upgrade yourself, one option is to use 10AWG wire (such as 10/2 Romex) between the breaker and the outlet (there are scenarios that you may use other wire types). You should always consult the current National Electrical Code to ensure everything is done to standard. Below is correct wiring for a 120V 30Amp RV plug (looking at the front of the plug).

30 Amp plug wiring

The only disadvantages to installing a 30 Amp dedicated outlet are the cost of this upgrade and the limitations if you ever plan to upgrade your RV to a bigger 50 Amp unit. Bottom line, I recommend installing a 30 Amp plug near your RV if you have a 30Amp power cord on your RV, don’t plan on upgrading RVs in the future, and you want the ability to power up your air conditioner(s).

Option 3: Install a Dedicated 50 Amp Outlet

50 Amp RV Outlet

If you have a 50 Amp RV, having a dedicated 50 Amp circuit is the “ideal” scenario. Having a dedicated 50 Amp RV plug would be just like if you were plugged in the campground. As such everything will operate just like when you are plugged into power pole at the RV park. For safety purposes, I strongly recommend a licensed electrician install new electrical circuits. 50 Amp plugs are a bit unique in that they are actually considered 120/240V plugs since they are 3-pole and are protected by a double-pole 240V breaker. Many people are immediately concerned when they learn that a 50 Amp outlet is actually 240V. However, 4-prong 50 Amp plugs also have a neutral line which really makes them 2 separate 120V outputs. This is how 50 Amp RVs are designed to work. If the outlet is wired correctly as shown below, you will not damage anything.

If you choose to attempt this upgrade yourself, one option is to use 6AWG wire (such as 6/3 Romex) between the breaker and the outlet (there are scenarios that you may use other wire types). You should always consult the current National Electrical Code to ensure everything is done to standard. Note you need to run 4 wires (2 hots, a neutral and a ground). Below is correct wiring for a 120V/240V 50 Amp RV plug (looking at the front of the plug). This type of circuit will have a double pole breaker to feed both 120V legs.

50 Amp plug wiring

The only real disadvantage to installing a 50 Amp dedicated circuit is the cost since 6AWG wire is fairly pricey. Otherwise, the labor cost should be approximately the same as a 30 Amp circuit. Bottom line, I recommend installing a 50 Amp plug near your RV if you have a 50Amp power cord on your RV (or you plan on upgrading RVs in the future) and you want the ability to power up your air conditioner(s).

What I Did

When I first bought my RV in 2016, I used option 1 to keep the batteries charged up and to pre-cool the refrigerator prior to trips. I never attempted to use the air conditioner when plugged into a 15 Amp outlet knowing it would be marginal at best. If I wanted to run the air conditioner to cool down the rig, I used the onboard Onan generator to provide adequate power.

When I had my new garage built in September of 2017, I had my electrician install a 50 Amp breaker in my garage for my RV while they were wiring up the rest of the garage during construction. Even though I only have a 30 Amp RV, I wanted it set up for a larger RV in case I ever decided to upgrade RVs. I simply run a 50 Amp to 30 Amp adapter as shown in the picture in the top of this post. As an added bonus, if we ever have extra house guests, I can simply power up the AC in the RV to have extra sleeping capacity.

Conclusion

While not in use, I recommend keeping your RV plugged in to keep the batteries topped off. There are three options available if you want to plug in your RV at home. You can use a normal household outlet with an adapter if you don’t want to run your air conditioner. The other options are to either install a dedicated 30 Amp 120V outlet or a dedicated 50 Amp 120/240V outlet. These dedicated outlet options will let you power all items that you normally would use while plugged into an RV park. Following this recommendation will limit any chance of causing damage to your expensive RV air conditioner(s).